Othering and Spam:
There are a couple of points to be made about the connection between othering and Spam, particularly in reference to the mainland of the USA and the Hawaiian Islands. The first is “outward” othering. During the Second World War the Hawaiian Islands were a very important strategic base from which the war in the Pacific was supplied. The people of the Hawaiian Islands didn’t have much in the way of foodstuffs, regardless of how much was being shipped further east, so the US government inundated the region with Spam. Hawaiians were given the “cheap” meat.
Hawaiians co-opted the cheap foodstuff and made it a part of their local culture in much the same way that Bolivians wear the hats of their oppressors. Now there are a lot of dishes that are made with Spam, not the least of which is the Spam musubi. The saying is that Spam musubi will make your hair shiny. It never really worked for me.
Now they say that you can not be a true Hawaiian if you don’t eat Spam. I think this illustrates the point that something can only be considered “cultural” as far as it is co-opted from an “other”. Tomatoes came from the Americas and noodles from China, but spaghetti is considered Italian food. There is no chop suey in Asia.
When a people identify themselves by what they eat, they almost always identify something from somewhere else. Ethnically I am Irish, but the Irish food, potatoes, comes from the Americas. When I remember Ireland the food that comes to mind is the fish and chip guy’s deep fried everything after the pubs closed, and the chipper was from Viet Nam.
Join the cultural revolution, and dig in!
2 Comments:
I started to post comments on this several times but couldn't get my thoughts organized. This effort may not be any better, but here goes:
My first Christmas eve in my current home was hectic, as most are. Once we finally got the kids in bed we realized how little time was left to finish wrapping presents and, more critically, finish assembling them. What's more, we were hungry.
I started calling take out places because we had nothing worth making, but they had all closed early. Finally I found one italian place that stayed open late, where I could still get a couple of meatball subs (with melted provolone & extra sauce). It was a Christmas miracle of sorts, and it tasted good to boot.
So, tonight, like several other nights since that Christmas, we had an emotionally exhausting night. The kids were in bed, our nerves were shot, and there was little patience or energy left for food preparation. I tried our usual take-out places but they were closed or had shut down their grills for the evening. And then it came to me, like the star to the Magi. We placed our order and feasted. With melted provolone & extra sauce.
Maybe cultures become attached to that which is not ordinarily part of their mundane, natural menu because of a sense of otherworldy help, blessing or good fortune. The meal held closest to our heart is that which conjures up memory of a saving grace, that which sustained us in our troubles. the Meatball sub to the hungry Magi, the SPAM from the mainland in a time of war, manna from heaven? Am I taking this too far?
Not at all too far. Food is inexorably linked to culture. In fact, when I was in college I had a course called something like The Effect of Foods. It was taught by a professor who had been stranded on a Pacific island while fighting WWII as a marine. His near starvation caused him to pay much closer attention to food than one normally would.
I remember being away and wanting anything "American" just so I could identify with my home culture. And now that I live here full time I crave Korean and Saudi foods. The Ghanaian foods I really like my wife only makes on special occasions, because I like them a bit too much.
Now that I live in the south I see it here too. We don't have boiled peanuts up north, or chitterlings or grits, for the most part. And they just can't really get clam chowder right down here.
I am still waiting for chowder to fall from the sky. Soon come, no worries...
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